Big Bus Tour

I know I already mentioned some of this in my last Blog; however, I was very tired but had to say more.  First, i highly recommend anyone visiting Shanghai take this tour.  The price cannot be beat with three tours, hop on - hop off, 24 hours to use the ticket.  It gives a completely different perspective of the city because, if you climb to the upper deck, and sit outside, there is so much more above the first floors of buildings.
For instance, many, many streets are lined with little shops.  What we do not see is what is above these shops.  Very often this where the family of a shop might live, or it is a space that has been rented to business or families.  If to families that is exactly what I mean.  The apartments might be divided to house more than one family.  I was amazed at how much I could get more than a passing glimpse of.  Beautiful, I assume old, stained glass windows that must look into an inner courtyard - where we mere pedestrians cannot see, it is all behind the shops.  This is, of course, partially a guess.  However, after seeing what Tai Kang Lu has become I stand firm in my belief there is much behind those shuttered or curtained spaces.  Especially if you are looking across the second or third floor.  I saw vast wardrobes in more than one apartment - how in heaven they managed to get them there in the first place can be partially figured out; it is doubtful they will be removed with any great care unless the whole block is going to be saved for refurbishment.  There were many blocks over the space we travelled.  What I thought was a block in the midst of being torn down provided a glimpse at determination - a balcony bonsai garden.  All gray surroundings, then turn your head, or look up, and around and there it was - several tiny, green trees in their individual pots.  A hobby for a small space.  But that space belonged to that individual.  I imagined an elderly man - could have been anyone.
The Big Bus is like the tours in Victoria - wish I had thought of starting such an operation in Shanghai.  I expect it was around the time of the Beijing Olympics, no idea if they are in Beijing too.  None of the 5 or 6 buses I was on were ever empty; they weren't always full either - that was the fun of getting off at an attraction, then jumping back on.  When I finally became quite exhausted - before discovering the buses I had walked from Ulumuqi at Hengshan to Nanjing Lu near the Art Museum.  A couple of hours.  My plan had been to walk to the Bund, check out Portman Hotel - it's what foreigners do, then catch the subway back.  Eventually I did take the subway, but that was after seeing the Jade Budha Temple; Jin Jiang Temple; Yu Yuan, Xintiandi and actually getting off at the Bund.  I had already seen all the others when I lived in Shanghai.  Perhaps if I had someone with me I would take these and the other attractions in again.  This was just very nice to become reacquainted.

Tai Kang Lu was a shock.  Perhaps if I went back another time I could handle the change.  It isn't that everyone was turfed out on their ears - it just seemed that way.  Not so sure about the side where there is a huge shopping centre; however, I do recall many of the living quarters above the shops seemed to be closed.  I also recall one place that might have had a flood in it as water had overflowed the little wooden balcony and water had trickled down to form a huge frozen water fall.  That was then.  Now, opposite there, is Tai Kang Lu.  So, after getting over my shock I ventured inside.  The key to any exploring in China is to look up.  That is where the people live, where the old can still be seen, where I am sure people wish the old were new.  This was a hu tong; fairly large now that it has been opened up.  My complaint is that it is so commercial - like so much in China.
I decided I needed to search for a familiar place - and fortunately I did.  Prices are heftier at Joma Arts where I had found four wool, Tibetan cushions before returning to Canada over seven years ago.  Now they only have rugs in the same style and are far too expensive right now for me.  I also found a beautiful silver bracelet, nothing like what we find at home, but that too seemed too steep.  Tourists, the wealthy ones, can go there to shop.  Kommune, a funky and very busy restaurant back when we would visit Tai Kang Lu is even busier with even more foreigners.  I did not buy anything.  However, I did decide to check out the Italian Restaurant where we had a birthday party for Rachel.  By the way Rachel, the gorgeous Italian is older now - still not too bad looking, but older.  So, yes That' Amore is still there.  They are just as welcoming as ever.  The owner let me take pictures, I had a cup of very delicious cappuccino; but of course their prices match the location.  Too bad the staff art too Chinese - perhaps it was the fact it was off hours - they were just too attentive; I preferred the family, let's eat and be merry atmosphere with just a hint of controlled chaos in the background. I would still love to eat there again - just to try it after all these years.

Next time - flight cancelled due to snow.  I could have sworn I left Canada!  (But, physical first)

You Can't go Home Again (or: Tides of Change)

I decided to walk from my friend's at one end of Huaihai Lu to Ruijin Lu to seek out the new old town she had told me about.  Along the way I could take photos, watch people, enjoy the lovely weather.  Some of the changes I have really taken notice of are pregnant bellies and newborns.  It is no longer just Chinese women who  are showing off their pregnancies and proudly carrying their newborn.  Now foreign women are doing the same. I saw two heavily pregnant women, two with very young babies, one perhaps 6-7 months along with a child also.  That was in the space of 4 hours!
I was also amazed at how many foreigners are riding fairly heavy duty motorcycles, as well as motor scooters.  There were three with sidecars - three people on each.  One group, yes a group, consisted of two touring bikes, the woman on one with flowing blonde hair streaming behind her; and the driver also seemed to have long hair - male though.
The biggest change though - for me, was to visit a small street we would frequent for cong yong bing; sweet potato chips; little trinkets; search out some hidden gems of stores and even places for the girls to take kung fu lessons.  I had not put the name of the place I should visit to the place we used to visit.  Our little street, with its few hidden alleys has been discovered.
All the quirky shops are gone - one whole side of the street was turned into a vast shopping centre, which means all the little shops on that side have vanished, along with where people lived above their shops.  Now there is Tai Kang Lu the old town.  Fine, it was quite a discovery and excellent investment to open this area up for those living there to make money.  It certainly draws the tourists.  But the charm is gone unless you can get away from the crowds and look up - at the old brickwork, the old wood latticework, old doors and little balconies.  Otherwise it is just another Yu Yuan, except nicer with more expensive stuff; or Xintiandi, but less expensive.  So, I  don't know if this is progress or not.  When I realized that the entrance to this maze of little alleys that twist in and around and out again was our special place I had to cover my mouth to hold back my shock.  It would not have done to have this middle aged foreign lady crying at the entrance of a tourist attraction - the most likely thought would have been that I was robbed.
Which I was in a way - another memory was taken away.  Perhaps why remaining in Shanghai, as much as I loved it before, is not a good idea.  You can go home, but it will never be the same.

I found this while visiting Yu Yuan and Xintiandi  the next day.  Yu Yuan just as crazy as ever.  Crowds dreadful, forgot this was a Saturday.  I did not stay long after doing a quick check for silver bells.  Headed for the foreign haven of Xintiandi.  Still expensive, still clean, still full of lots and lots of restaurants that should meet anyone's tastes.  Simply Thai is still there, looking as calming and relaxing as ever.  I wonder if it is the atmosphere or just how we expect all things Thai to be.
I did not stay long there either.  Thank goodness for all those new subway lines - took the number 10 each time.  After two days of exploring and lots of walking I am utterly exhausted.
My best adventure today was going shopping for some ingredients to make tomato sauce.  I cheated a bit, bought tomato past, canned black olives and feta cheese at the store Faezeh goes to.  But I did buy small tomatoes, bananas and oranges at one of the local markets nearby and two types of cong you bing.  So, I feel as though I accomplished something.  I even returned the adapter I do not need and got my money back!
Sauce is made, cooling down and will be ready for lunch or dinner tomorrow.  Simple cooking at home - not always easy in China.  Now, 7:00PM and I need a nap.
Meeting with Shirley and other former colleagues tomorrow for tea; then perhaps I will tackle the Bund as my last old haunt.  By then I also hope to have my writing voice back.

Some Observations

You cannot record your thoughts unless a writing implement or recording device is right at hand.  Which never seem to be.
Shanghai is the exact opposite of my little cottage and idyllic spot in Sooke.  Never quiet.  There is always, I mean always, noise.  I suppose there is in Sooke too; however, that is more often the sound of nature.  Here there are car, motorbike, bicycle horns; sirens; people yelling - that seems to be a constant; dogs barking; children playing; loudspeakers blaring; music; bells; whistles; birds - yes, there are birds; wind.  A cacophony of un-orchestrated sound.
People yell to be heard.  On their cell phones they try to be heard over the noise of traffic and everyone else who are also trying to be heard over the same distractions.  They yell from the ground to people on the 20 something floor of apartment buildings - why they don't just go up or call and then yell less boistriously is beyond me.  (and I have a spelling block - must check later).  They yell for children to "lai.le" (come); or to "zuo ba" (hurry up), to get off the road, to pee over there - young children are still encouraged to urinate wherever it is handy, although a bit more discreetly since I was last here.  Perhaps that is more my not seeing many children out during the day.  (Must get back to that)  One little boy at a shop near my friends, where I was attempting to deal with finding the right adapter for plugging in my computer here with no luck, was given the instruction to pee on the concrete floor close to the counter.  Was this an indication of how desperate he was, a way to show the foreigner there was a son in the family, or indifference - perhaps all three?
There are fewer children around.  Things must be going well in China because they only come out of the brickwork when school is over.  This means that more and more children are attending preschool than ever.  Yes, grandparents still seem to be fetching them after classes because parents work - the difference is that there is spare income to send children off, thus lifting the burden off grandparents to care for grandchildren.  I am not sure this is good or bad - it certainly changes the cultural norm of society again.
Dogs.  As my family is aware, I am not a fan of dogs - especially big dogs.  When I left China I had only seen two big dogs - St. Bernard's, and they were in a car.  Now there are all sorts of mid-size and larger dogs.  It is like when people in China were finding they could afford to purchase cars.  China is not a car culture.  Nor is it a dog culture.  I am sure people do care about their pets, make no mistake - these are pets, not guard dogs; I hope.  The problem is that most people live in apartments, and they work all day.  So now, instead of looking after young grandchildren I can't help but wonder if grandparents are now looking after pets.  I have seen young and old alike walking these animals.  Small yappy dogs, larger - and calmer, big dogs.  Where once a woman pushing a shopping cart and talking to herself would not have gained even a first glance, now I have seen a woman pushing a shopping cart with her dog in it, talking to the dog.  That still does seem to get at least a couple of stares.  I was in a taxi, stopped for traffic, which gave me this study of people in China and their dogs.  Because they, the dogs that, are very much treated like children.
A final observation.  I am rather spoiled right now.  Still in the metropolis of Shanghai, not a whole lot to do, staying with a very gracious friend makes it seem as though I am on holiday as well as in a holding pattern.  A life like this would be very nice - food is always available, clean apartment, kind words, lots of personal space - she works, go out when I want to...now if I had this at home would I go for it?  I am inclined to say only if it did not mean I had to do all the shopping, cleaning and earning - which is not possible there or here.
So, I will enjoy this respite while I can.  Off to the office this morning to drop off photos for my visa - 16 of them!  Cannot imagine why they need so many.  Like one of the staff said, perhaps they have a personal album.  I could add to that by wondering if they have two albums, the ones they approve and the ones they don't - just because.  I doubt I will ever be able to figure out the legalities of the foreigner policies here - which makes sense from the Chinese standpoint.

Already 4 days here!

It is said time flies when you're having fun.  It also flies when crossing the Pacific.  Absolutely exhausted when I finally made it to my friend's in Shanghai.  I think technically it was very early Sunday morning - after midnight anyway.  I was at the Victoria airport by 6:00AM on Friday.  Rather uneventful flight - that's good when you think about it - except for my nagging last bit of a cold that meant I had to get up a few times to use the teeny tiny washroom.  All very well until told to stay in our seats because of turbulence!  Being an 'old woman' makes finding washrooms a priority - not easy in the Tokyo airport.
To make matters worse I suddenly seemed to develop a cold sore somewhere over Japan, or it might have bee n after we left Japan.  Now I have a full blown sore and a plugged ear from the pressure entering Japan.  I know I have never really wanted to visit Japan, but this was a bit ridiculous - can't really blame air quality or the flight on that country.
So, safely here.  Headed to GK Monday morning.  Did some 'training'; I was doubting whether or not the person doing the training really knew what she was talking about.  By Wednesday I thought she had some idea, but do not agree with some of her views when teaching young children.  Matters did not improve when I was told I needed to stay in Shanghai another week in order to have the physical done - I really feel like I am overstepping my role as a guest now.  Fortunately, F is ever the gracious host - says it is not a problem and it is nice to have company because she rarely has people stay for any length of time.  I have my doubts, but am ever so grateful for her hospitality.  Very Persian.
Visited my old school - it is so nice to be remembered after all this time.  Loved the accolades I must admit - the principal is no longer in that role, but does go there fairly often.  Seems I caught her on the right day.  Shirley is off on maternity leave - she had a baby!  Boy, am I ever out of the loop.  We have decided to meet on Sunday for 'tea' - I am hoping Leann and Lily will join us.  I wonder if there is anyway the school can offer me a job with more pay.  Just thinking out loud.  Seems the idiot I dealt with before is no longer doing the headhunting.
So much whirling around in my head I cannot keep things straight.  Shanghai is more polluted than before - so sad.  More foreigners than ever - saw a few riding motor bikes, now that's new.  Still many on bikes without helmets - wonder if they would do the same in their home country.  I managed to do  transaction for 16 - yes, 16, small photos for my visa.  Got lost, again.  This is becoming a habit - fortunately I do eventually find my way.  I feel like I have come home, and can accept the changes  because of the changes with the girls at home. Everything evolves,
Which brings me to Zoe - I worry about her.  She does not have any direction.  She can't come here because she hasn't even graduated.  She has so many talents, and I expect she would do very well in China if she found something she liked doing.  I just do not think I am prepared for her to be here though - not yet.

Moving Along

Rachel has offered to stay with her grandmother - not that her GM really needs anyone to stay with her- but I will be in China.  Knowing there is someone around will give me peace of mine if not anyone else!  Both covet their privacy and the house is built to suit an arrangement that suits such an arrangement.  So, thank you Rachel for the selfless act. 
To be fair I also need to thank Joy and Allan ever so much - they were the first ones to offer financial support when I knew that I could not raise a significant amount of money to make this work.  Without their help I would only be able to get halfway - somewhere over the Pacific Ocean!

To Elizabeth and Ben who also provided money - I know it was tough what with your student loan pending.  With you guys and your sister Joy I now have my ticket, money for my visa - still waiting for that; bought two much needed pieces of luggage - on sale of course; other necessary items and have enough to get on with things in China!

Now, if I can do some writing and photographs and get paid for it life would be perfect.  Taking my turquoise puppet, Sylvia, with me to help with simple dialogue.

Shanghai, here I come - next stop....

Roller Coaster

This is why I do not like roller coasters or similar type rides.  The stomach churning, what next, OMG feeling is bad enough in everyday life - why force it?  An explanation is needed.  My holding pattern is not at a complete standstill - just feels like it is.  I could not recall, without checking first, if I had already written about the events of yesterday.  I had not - too exhausted i suppose.  Visions of having to cancel, or at least postpone my trip were galloping through my head - somehow I managed to avoid a headache upon waking up this morning.
Yesterday was Rachel's birthday.  Therefore, because she does not like grand celebrations done for her it was decided to combine our annual theatre outing, a late lunch and her birthday at my mother's.  Only Lucas and Zoe were missing.  Pirates of Penzance suited the lightheardte, happy mood everyone seemed to be in.  Setting aside packing, leaving, house, exams, papers for a while would be a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon.  First everyone from Victoria came to my cottage, we transferred some boxes to my sister's car and I had help getting boxes and lots of stuffed animals out of the attic.  Rachel dressed up with my crocodile head and a crown - we toyed with the idea she should wear it to the play.  It was pointed out we were not going to Peter Pan.  Off we went to my mother's - a five minute drive.
Cake dropped off safely, rides determined and we headed off - a three minute drive to the high school.  Bought our tickets - must remember to get money from everyone, bought a cookie and a bottle of water.  After ten minutes we headed into the theatre, found seats and waited for the lights to go down.  No more than five minutes later we were attempting to leave - my mother had what was eventually determined to be a TIA (or something like that - in layman's terms: a faint).  Ambulance called, everyone headed to the hospital.  Four hours after we left the house we were headed home - minus everyone else.  No play (Blackbeard the Pirate just happened to be on the TV in the waiting room though), no lasagna. no party. 
When we did get back to Sooke my mother and I were ravenous - baked the lasagna, ate then had cake.  I put a candle on each piece then called Rachel to sing happy birthday - and told her to blow out the candles.  All was well.
Except I began to worry.  My sister began to worry.  Rachel began to worry.  We did not say anything to each other - being in our own homes.  Today I am still planning to leave on Friday; Rachel has offered to live at her grandma's, my sister is pondering POA  and my mother is feeling slightly brow beaten.  Which puts me in a holding pattern - my car is stuffed to the gunnels (pirates on the mind) ready to be stored - but not sure where!  I plan on sleeping the whole plane ride.

Weather Report

It seemed like a good time to check the weather in Shanghai and Taiyuan to compare it to Victoria.  Shanghai wins at a bright, if hazy 20c; Taiyuan a comfortable sweater day at 12c and sunny; Victoria 6c with stormy, slashing rain.  Of course I exppect Taiyuan will be cold eventually, it is landlocked and in the northwest of China.  Trying to decide if I need to rethink clothing for Shanghai though.