Tuesday, 27 December 2011

Email bits and pieces Dec 12/11 - Dec 15/11

My School Day

Well, it was bound to happen sooner than later.  I finally had a clash with a teacher; unfortunately she is in my classroom.  Why we need so many teachers in one class is beyond me.  Without me there are 5 staff in one class!  The TA and Life Skills (nicer than lackey) do more than the supposed trained teachers.  Except me - I work very hard, in English - in a Chinese class.
Today things came to a head when one of the T's did not appreciate that Vlad's class joined our class for lunch.  They and another class had already participated in my class because their rooms were too cold.  I had understood they would be joining us for lunch.  Then the Chinese teacher took his class back to their room - no idea why.  I told Vlad his class might as well stay seeing as he had already brought a table and chairs.
Well, I guess this did not go over well with the teacher who has the poorly placed name of Sunny.  I believe she actually called the person sort of in charge while the principal is away to complain that Vlad was in our classroom with his class.  Oh my - how dreadful.  Of course Yoki, (where do they get these names?) came upstairs to confront Vlad - asking, in a not too friendly manner who made the decision that he could join us.  Also why he did not tell the other Ts.  So I stepped in for two purposes, Sunny was raising her voice, which meant others were too, and I felt it was my decision based on what I had understood. 
I literally had to step in, quietly, but with conviction, asking them to take their argument out of the classroom as it was not a healthy environment for the children.  I think that surprised everyone.
So, we got to freeze in the hallway while we discussed what had occurred.  To me it made absolutely no sense - Sunny does not do any real teaching.  I came very close to saying that, and it is my class not hers.  However, she seems to be under the impression everything has to be passed by her.  I found out later that Shelley, the teacher who had to leave, had problems with this teacher also.  I will continue to stand my ground, asserting my position if absolutely necessary.  I am of the opinion this one teacher should not be in an English speaking class - she is constantly speaking Chinese to the children, even while I am teaching.
Then we had to rehearse for the Christmas show, which was planned for 3:00; surprise, surprise my class was nearly 20 minutes late getting to the auditorium.  It made things quite rushed to get anything done with 30 children who had never heard our Christmas song - plus teachers.  The principal will only have to worry about the performance if anyone dares try to sabotage the efforts of the children.  By the end of the day, and it was past my time to leave, I had a headache. 
I still need to make playdough - think I will use it to soothe my nerves.
kld

Dec 13/11  Sick in Taiyuan

Well, the cold classroom has finally gotten the best of me.  I am definitely sick.  So far mostly a drippy nose, but I can feel a fever trying to settle in.  It is not any fun being sick, half way around the country and no one to look after me.  Not even my kitty.

Temperature in my classroom today was a bit warmer, I think we managed to get up to 15 C. by the afternoon; it started at 7 C. The hallways remain near freezing.  As do the offices and the library.  My class is the warmest.  No wonder I am sick - along with the fact most of the children have had colds.

I am feeling sorry for myself; I need a warm blanket, some of Rachel's magic drink - all I have water.  Perhaps I will venture out tomorrow to find lemon juice, honey and cayenne pepper.  Well, perhaps not the pepper - no idea how to find that amongst all the Chinese herbs.

So, if anyone other than my immediate family does not hear back from me right away I am not ignoring you - I am having a pity fest.
Snuffle, snuffle.
kld

Dec 15/11  Ninnys (or is that ninnies?)

Bit of a blow up today - it has been boiling to bursting point all week, and today it bubbled right over.  I called the Shanghai office today, then send a very long email detailing events and what finally made me so upset.

I am not accustomed to being insulted, not regarding my ability to teach, and especially not in front of other teachers.  It was not even my teaching that was at issue, it is the lack of communication with the other teachers.  All I am doing is trying to communicate with them!  Some of them went running to their mummy, the principal, who seems to have a bee in her bonnet regarding salary as it is, and wanted to meet.

I finally became so fed up I said I would call Shanghai and talk to them.  I took half a day the next day as a personal day  I felt bad about leaving Vlad to deal with the whole Christmas Show on his own.  All this because one newly graduated ninny's nose is out of joint.  I think she has been given too much authority and it is going to her head.

The principal might say she can do the teaching, but English is not her first language - Chinese is. 
Damn, damn, damn!
kld

Dec 16/11  How Much Was That Popcorn?  (Including an impromptu poem)

First, thank you Rachel and Elizabeth - you remembered what we missed the most in China.  The coffee press is wonderful - I could barely wait to get home to have real coffee tat was brewed properly.  Books, conditioner and the silly hand tattoos will definitely be appreciated.
I guess this means the parcel arrived!  Yeah!   MMMMM,  fresh popped popcorn and fresh brewed coffee!

Popcorn in the pan, sizzle, sizzle,  Popping like mad, sizzle, sizzle.
Oops, pan's a bit low
pour it into a bowl
popcorn in the pan sizzle, sizzle.
A little on the floor
and even more out the door..
popcorn in the pan sizzle, sizzle.
Yikes, how daft
It's heading for the elevator shaft.
popcorn in the pan sizzle, sizzle.
Over the sink
and down the brink
twenty one stories down
Watch out - don't drown!
popcorn in the pan sizzle, sizzle.
Over the cars, bicycles and dogs
quickly seized up any cogs.
popcorn in the pan sizzle, sizzle.
slipping sliding along thin ice
try to stop it - no dice.
dancing up the steps
just what is its depth?
popcorn in the pan sizzle, sizzle.
Into a school
that's pretty cool
up to a classroom
Quick everybody - grab a broom!
popcorn in the pan sizzle, sizzle.

Email bits and pieces Nov 2011 - Dec 10/11

Nov 30/11

Not a Good First Impression
Aw. The something funny did not seem to be there and I could have done with a laugh.  Stuck at Taiyuan airport, no one to meet me, then my IC card (for phone calls) was either eaten by the phone or stolen while I was not looking.  I think the latter.
There is snow here - found out that is why I was not met - person stuck in traffic because of the snow.  Or so they say.  The fact there was not any snow on the actual roads did make me wonder if they thought I was blind.  First impressions - do not ask!
kld

Dec 2/11

To My Sister

You did say perhaps you should visit me while I am in China - I find that if I explain it is to let my family know I get things done faster.  So if I say my sister is going to come perhaps I will receive an answer the same day I ask!
  If you came to Beijing you could see the Forbidden City, the Great Wall and some other places.  All in the freezing cold most likely.
 Go to Shanghai, warm up a little - do some touring around - the Big Bus Tour is great.  Along with going to places I know without looking at maps.  A trip to nearby Hangzhou would be a must -
If you want to go to Xi'an to see the Warriors... No idea if there are fast trains to there yet.  Basically a nine day tour without being stuck in an actual tour.  We could pick and choose.  The only other area to consider will be hotels, because we would need to stay somewhere.  Not so sure you could handle some of the ones I have stayed in.  So, think cost - how much do you want to spend, besides on your flight.  I will have only been paid once by then, for Dec, which will be paid on Jan 5th.
I can't promise you will like everything, but I can promise you will say you were glad you had the opportunity.
kld


Dec 3/11Shopping and Decorating


Well.  I not only survived the cold, I survived Walmart.  It's called a super centre - not sure if that is because there are more stores in the same building, or if Walmart has several floors and I just started in the basement.  Definitely felt like a cross between a bargain basement store and a step down from Carrefour (big European chain in Shanghai).  Not really like the Walmarts in Canada other than the blue vests.  Service was very fast though.
Managed to not buy a coffee maker - figured out the cost would have been around 60CAD - so will have to figure something else out.  Perhaps a tea press, they can usually stand in for a French press, except I expect I will be chewing coffee grounds.  Meanwhile, I will look longingly at my 1/2 lb of ground coffee from Stick in the Mud, smell it every once in a while, dream of a good cup of coffee and then drink the instant premixed stuff we used to get until we discovered Star Bucks in Beijing, then eventually all over the place in Shanghai.  I do believe there is a McDonald's after all, I saw someone carrying a bag.  Perhaps I will have to find out where just to get some coffee every once in a while.  It's also where foreigners often congregate, well those from western countries do.  There is a KFC on the same level as Walmart so all is not lost - they have coffee too I expect.
Back to why I was at Wal Mart in the first place.  I figured I should venture out a bit further than the SMS (or is it SSM?) store up the block in the opposite direction.  Biggest difference, more people at Walmart can speak some English whereas the only attempt by someone at SMS was a hearty, rather high pitched "Hello!", repeated a few times before I saw where it came from.  A young man behind the glass where cong you bing and such are made was smiling at me from behind his mask - he seemed quite pleased with his attempt, especially when I turned around and flashed him a smile - yes, flashed, very rare from me to actually even be able to flash smiles - they often seem contrived.  Except when with little children.  Before I forget, one little girl - Mina, came up to me yesterday, late afternoon - normally I would have been gone, and gave me a kiss on my cheek.  I think I have been accepted.
Back to shopping.  I first strolled around the store just to see what is available - still cannot find any popcorn, I've been looking.  Lots of sales pitches from the many staff on the floor - very typical in China.  Also one or two unhappy looking staff trying to hide in corners.  I saw this yesterday also, I think for two of them at least they might have been unwell.  The one at Walmart was amongst the soaps, so not so bad; but the other was around packaged cookies or something like that, not so good..  Very difficult to call in sick here - someone else will likely replace you.
Lots of packaged grocery choices, I didn't see everything, produce a bit better than SMS.  I might just venture down the street to one of the small vendors to buy fruit each day or so.  Nice to really support local if possible after all.  Gives a sense of belonging - and they will certainly remember me, I seem to be the only foreigner on the block.  I did see one man with three children on Thursday who appeared to be middle eastern - as did the children, but less so.  No words were passed between us - nor could I determine what one of the children said or in which language.  There is another kindergarten right in the same complex as where I work, different company, so I might introduce myself.  No harm keeping windows and doors of opportunity open.
Right, decorating.  I took a before picture of my rather drab, huge apartment and plan to get to work gussying it up a bit.  Will take an after photo for the big reveal.  Most of my expenses at WalMart went into that - along with much need cleaning supplies such as laundry soap.
My other challenge for today will be trying to not electrocute myself when putting on the wash, or be drowned, and figuring out which button is for what - perhaps I should have paid more attention to characters that say on and off!  In the next couple of hours I hope to have clean clothes and a liveable space - all accomplished with the wave of a magic wand.
kld

Dec 4/11 Noisome thoughts

Listening to car horns on a Sunday afternoon I can't help but wonder if it is due to the dense smog or a traffic jam.  Everyone honks even if it isn't necessary!

Several weddings these past 4 days - firecrackers, drums, more firecrackers - all night some of the time! 
And then are the really expensive weddings, or perhaps a baby boy was born, when the really heavy artillery comes out.  Not that I can see where it is coming from.  Even without the smog the tall buildings make it impossible to see very far.  However, to be fair there is a great view of the river - or there was.  Even had ice floes in it.  Too bad I haven't been able to see it for two days now.


Construction - all day, everyday, never seems to end.  I am sure somewhere either above me or below someone is hammering away at the same space without getting anywhere.  Surely they must have made a hole by now!

Elevators - now I know why living on the 5th or 6th floor is a good idea.  Walking up 21 floors could wear out even the fittest person.  Decided against it, went to buy some dinner - returned, and it was working.

Shopping - most people go shopping for food nearly every day; all very well if you know where to go, what is what and how much should be paid.  Noodles are a big thing here, getting rather tired of them - especially in soup form.  People here slurp their noodles, their soup, everything - I had forgotten that.  Quite a talent when using chopsticks!

Of course there many smokers in Taiyuan, just adding to the pollution.  In Shanghai young people are not smoking - especially those in university or white collar jobs from the sounds of it.

Coffee has definitely taken hold in China, less so in some regions - like Taiyuan.  I wonder what the per capita is?  There is someone my friend knows who has a company that deals in coffee, don't know if it is grown here, but the business is in China so all the roasting etc is here.  They even deliver it right to your door - the beans that is.  Wonder if they could get me a coffee maker.  $60.00 was just too expensive.

On that note, need to decide if I should have another cup of the instant stuff or have tea instead.  At least I like tea.
kld

Dec 4/11 Taiyuan Comments

While searching for something, anything, that had nice things to say about Taiyuan I stumbled across a gem regarding pollution and beds.
  I have been here for 4 days and 8 hours - give or take five minutes.  I was in China seven years ago.  I loved China then.  I loved my unexpected glorious ten days in Shanghai - I am in dire need of ten more right now.  What can I say about Taiyuan without insulting the people who are stuck living here.  Nothing.  Except I want to.
It is worse than a cesspool - at least drowning would come quickly in a cesspool.  Taiyuan on the other hand is beyond oppressive.  It is depressing, dull, a pall hangs over everything, filthy, beyond gray, choking grayness - like a venomous snake swirling in the slowest, murkiest slow motion movie one can imagine.  The grayness is palpable.  That isn't fog - it is smog.  Smog to the highest power.  I was in Shanghai during SARS - we had a great time pestering those taking temps.  We got to be tourists without all the pesky tourists.  And I was still able to work.
In Taiyuan I am also working - more hours, less air.  I think someone should consider investing in some of those oxygen bars that were popular some years ago-I know I would be a patron.  Some rose coloured glasses would be helpful too, except I am afraid I would trip over a building I couldn't already see without the added tint of rose. Hard bed-oh yes, that gave rise to a chuckle. Who cares, it's only me.  Everyone just disappears once they are finished work, shopping or whatever. Not sure anyone actually plays-although I do know where there is a fitness centre; how to they do aerobics and breathe? Things must be pretty good now, at least I can find yogurt, pasta, tomato sauce and even some form of mayonnaise. Not for me. No real coffee yet, the only coffee makers are $60.00CAD. I really need a cup of Stick coffee that I brought all the way from Sooke, BC.
kld


 Dec 7/11 There Are Bears in Them Thar' Hills


There are actually hills in Taiyuan - and bears!  The bears were being discussed with teachers after I was exclaiming about seeing mountains.  I quickly lowered that to a lesser degree of hills.  Somehow we got onto bears - most likely because I had been saying we have bears where I live.  In the backyard - they were suitably impressed and a bit incredulous.
To really provide an idea of just significant the change in the air was, I was absolutely flabbergasted to see the bridge I can see from my apartment lit up tonight!  Not just simple lights, but pink, yellow and blue - the colours change.  There is a stadium across the river; and the river might not have ice floes after all, although I am still inclined to think it did - there are clumps of long grasses. 
I even saw blue sky and the sun during the day and the moon and the first star tonight.  What a difference to the cityscape.  There is a city out there after all.  I was beginning to think I would fall off the edge of the sidewalk if I went any further than the end of my street or past Walmart - in the other direction.  Too bad the wind had picked up though.  Now all the smog is being blown in our faces. 
I now know we definitely have a holiday from Jan 1 - 3; then14 - 29.  Now to find out if the school will be closing early to put heating in the floors.  I said it made more sense to have the holiday and closing occur at the same time - when it is really cold and everyone will be away anyway.  Of course the thought of staying in Taiyuan does not appeal to me for a whole month!
We are working on a Christmas Show - so silly.  So far all I know is that it will be 1 1/2 hours with five classes (only two are international).  We might have to drag the poor children out to perform in public to promote the school.  I am dead set on that, as are the parents according to the other foreign teacher.  He said the parents were very unhappy with a similar event for Halloween.  Who can blame them - they pay a lot of money to send their children here.  We are pushing for a show at the school, even if it means inviting interested parents.  Much easier to handle the whole thing - even if we do a show, have a dinner and even Santa Claus.
Never mind the original meaning of the holiday!
All this means I am wracking my brain to teach something extra easy for the children to do, and doing something that is a show stopper.  So far I have to simplify one song - Winter related rather than Christmas.  I do have simple costumes in mind - they go for grand events in China.  I suggested that all the children do one or two songs at the end together - the principal liked the idea.  Now to make it work!
I had so much to write and now it has all gone from my head - like the smog.  I am ready for bed, only 6:36.  I just wish my bed did not feel like I am sleeping on the ground - if this is how it feels to sleep on concrete I am doubly sorry for the homeless.  I get so exhausted trying to turn over that I usually do not get a really sound sleep until 5, and my alarm goes off at 6:30.
Turning over is torture, all my muscles and bones complain bitterly.  To make matters worse, after my first day on Thursday I started to slip on a patch of ice, wrenching my knee - the one I already have a problem with.  It has been sore ever since, first thing in the morning after sleeping, then again after work.  I must figure out an ice pack - making ice cubes takes days.  Perhaps if I put my ice cube tray in the hallway of the school. I have a tiny ice cube tray.  It took three days to make enough cubes to take to school today for an ice melting and painting activity.  Fortunately that was a success.  For the four children in class today. 
That is another problem, not everyone comes to school so I never know how many I will have and certainly can't teach anything for a show despite what the principal says.  Spending 30 minutes with them sitting on the carpet is also useless when there are only four. Oh well, all I can do is try.
Things are looking brighter though - at least for now, I really hope the smog stays away for a few days at least.

kld 

Dec 10/11  Coffee and Museum

My latest adventures were Friday night and Saturday afternoon.  I can only handle so much excitement at a time.
Friday, first we had to stay late to meet with the principal whose main focus was that she, "...is worried about your performances."  So much for having the support of the school.  We also found out that she told the Chinese teachers to plan something, most likely in November, and they must rehearse every Wednesday after school.  My response - an aside to Jim - was that they will be showing us up.  Then I had to explain what that meant.  He is from Russia.  We ended up staying until well after 5:30, most likely much to the delight of the principals and the owners - they are demanding we be at school from 8 - 5:30.  I fired off a letter, carefully crafted as all missiles should be, to Shanghai providing my views on this.  I did see the response Jim received regarding a letter he sent; however, we are not making it known we have been discussing this situation.  We are a united front in the back of those who are giving us a headache.
All this does lead up to coffee.  I have a TA who speaks English, fairly decently, the problem is that she hasn't a clue where things are here - despite being raised in Taiyuan!  So Jim offered to take me to Fashion Walk, we both wanted to see where our classes will b performing.  Afterwards we walked back to where he caught his bus and I decided to go for coffee at UBC.
 Usually two floors, serving food, coffee, tea and fancy juices - never very busy. Menu in Chinese and English.  Of course this is where things started to become confusing.  I just wanted a cup of coffee, with milk.  Forget trying to say cream - I am sure the concept is beyond some of those who work there.  In Taiyuan when people say they only speak a little English they mean it - hello, coffee, bye-bye - are often all I can get out of anyone.  The fact I use passable Chinese for very simple requests makes everyone assume I must be fluent.  Perhaps all foreigners here are.
First they ascertained I did want to be on the second floor.  Then I chose where I would sit.  Next, order yi bei kafei; wo yao niu nai.  One coffee; I want milk.  Except this simple request resulted in about 5 minutes of mass confusion.  Did I want cold coffee with milk?  No, I want hot coffee, and milk.  Did I want hot coffee and hot milk?  No, just a little milk.  Ah, did I want one cup of coffee and one cup of milk?  By this time I had resorted to trying to over-explain things, in Chinese, when it dawned on me to be more explicit with actions rather than words.  Remember, all this was in Chinese - except for the few words of English from me when I was at a loss to explain all I wanted was a little cream to put in my coffee to stir and drink.  Then it dawned on me - I asked for a little cup of milk, but this time showed the size I meant.  Presto, the girl ran over to the counter where she has all her spoons, tissue (they do not use napkins here) and whatnot, pulled out a creamer and presented it to me with a flourish.  Feeling triumphant I was just about to say thank you when she asked if I wanted sugar in my coffee!  An emphatic no.  When the coffee finally arrived, after my food, from the first floor, it was delivered on a tray, the cup sitting beside the saucer, the server seemed to be waiting for something - perhaps he was unsure to whom this one little cup of should go to?  After all, everyone else had their coffees - I assume they were having coffee.  I beckoned him over, do they not know it is dangerous to get between a foreigner and her coffee?  He did not budge, just looked a little scared and helpless, maybe he did know - ah, the upstairs girl had to put the cup on the saucer and present the spoon to said saucer before taking the whole and making a presentation of my coffee to me.  With another creamer.  Despite the ice cold cream hitting the very hot coffee and coming close to curdling, I used both creamers, it was a decent cup of coffee - or I was just so desperate by then I did not know better.  I am discovering that coffee in the evening is good for the soul - at least in Taiyuan it is.  I will not blame it on waking up every hour - I hadn't had decent coffee until several days after the rock hard bed.
Thank goodness my food was easier to order.  Not only was there English, there were pictures.  Well, there were for the coffee too - but I did not have my glasses.

Taiyuan Museum

The museum was today's adventure.  Next time I go out I must remember to wear my leggings under my pants - it was fine in a taxi and the museum, but outside was like getting into a bathtub of ice cubes, or having a cold shower - the latter being common here when poor wiring means the hot water tank is not on.  (My Friday was like that all day - starting with the cold shower).
I left after 11:00, figuring it was before lunch, but after everyone has gone shopping.  Lots of taxis, all going in the opposite direction, with passengers.  I could only assume it was the opposite direction - I did not have a clue where the museum was.  I copied the address from a site, in Chinese, along with a picture and saved it on my laptop.  Thus armed, with a fully charged battery, I headed off.  When I had gone all the way to the end of the street, legs now entombed in  icicles, I finally saw a taxi coming down the street - one is always trying to walk straight, avoid traffic and turn to look behind for a taxi to come out of the oncoming traffic.  I hopped in, he asked where to - and I couldn't see the page on the computer to show him because the sun was glaring in the window.  Well, I didn't care if I was going the wrong way, it was an adventure - I finally got to it, he muttered something about having to go around, so I smiled sweetly - most likely frightened him, and we were on our merry way.  He of course tried to make small talk - something about why did I want to go to the museum?  I was able to say I taught little children every day so today I wanted to see something in Taiyuan.  He sort of understood.  People in China need to get out more to see what their country has to offer.
Unfortunately the museum was just a museum - great architecture, but the artifacts were very much like other museums I have seen in China.  Except the Buddhas - that was interesting.  So many of these statues, regardless the size, are missing their right hand (I did not check the ones with several hands that carefully).  Some are missing their head - some head and hands.  But most are missing the right hand.  Then I thought about it, that is the hand that is held up from the extended arm - only from the elbow - making it more liable to be damaged over centuries of people touching it, making offerings or whatever.  Being left handed is safer!  I managed to stay warm, it was quiet most of the time, only one tour came through while I was there, so I just changed the direction I was going in to avoid them;  I noticed one man did the same thing.
There were also models of different wooden structures, mainly for worship and theatrics (not in the same room) that I quite liked.  Some of the former still exist, but the majority I believe have either been destroyed over time or were rebuilt.  I would love to have one made for children to use. 
Then it was back outside to find another taxi and head home.  It took a bit to find one at that end too, even with the helpful advice of my first driver who told me it would be difficult to find a taxi on the road where he let me off.  Where I did go was nearly devoid of cars that were moving, three taxis stopped to drop people off, but they were too far off for me to get their attention.  I finally saw one that stopped and disgorged some people, so I flagged it down.  I then heard a child say to its parent something about not having that one - absolutely not in sight when I flagged it, so I did not feel guilty about leaving them out in the cold.  They would have a much easier time of it getting one than I.  I had the school address written down on my museum paper, so that was easy, but he kept it!  All in all not a bad day - the museum was free, my total expense 42RMB - taxis.  ($7.00)  I had the foresight to bring a snack with me too.
kld

Jin Ci Hotel Buffet Lunch

Well, 40RMB for a taxi one way to Jin ci Hotel and he did not even go through the gates.  Too intimidating?  Wrong colour?  Don't laugh, in Shanghai the colour of the taxi meant how much you would have to pay and often whether or not you would make it to your destination - well, 7 years ago it did anyway.

Back to the hotel.  To confuse everyone this and the park blog will be present and past tense.  I was writing in real time, with the intention to transfer to the computer the same day - that did not happen.  Therefore, I am adding bits I had not written at the time.  Throw away the editing pen!

No matter, despite the cold it was a short, pleasant walk.  When I got to the right place, there are several buildings within the hotel compound - that is the only way to describe it, I was able to talk to a very friend help assistant manager.  She took me to look at one of the rooms, "Chinese style."  This had me asking if it meant actually Chinese or was it decorated in a certain fashion.  I believe she found this query confusing; when we finally looked at the room I explained after ensuring there was a western toilet and shower.  It seems I am teaching regardless what I am doing.

After we walked back to the main hotel I was asked if I wanted to eat in their banquet room because it was "maybe" too early to go to see the park next door.  Translation - it was lunch time and then there would be the inevitable nap (or rest) time.  Even this far north.  Only the banquet room was available because there were two or three conferences at the hotel that day.

Very sweet coffee!  But pretty good.  They must assume all foreigners drink coffee rather than tea.  The coffee did not taste like the prepackaged stuff; however, there was a machine that readily offered refills.  The first cup must have been the special blend - only one cup per person.  I am the only foreigner in the banquet hall - buffet lunch, 168RMB - this will be an expensive day!  Jin ci Park after I eat and warm up.  At least I can take my coat off here.
 
Braised enema?  I do not think that can be right!  Despite the automatic, or push button, closing lids for the warming pans much of the food is only lukewarm.  Except the shrimp dumplings which are in steamer baskets without lids.  They are absolutely delicious!  Rice paper wrappings with delectable shrimp and what I believe is a hint of cilantro.  I will not ask where the shrimp came from, this being a landlocked province just below Inner Mongolia.  The benefit of having a bit more money is being able to eat a good meal without being cold - me, not the food!

I foolishly left my non-working Canadian cell at home - more commonly referred to as mobiles in China, which still works for taking pictures.  On the way to the hotel - roughly 30 minutes, everything was all industrial in appearance except for a few glimpses of what might have been small temples.  One in particular - for its size and placement, was surrounded by run-down, utilitarian shops, none over a storey high, which made the temple appear to be reaching for the heavens in a last gasp for fresh air and freedom. 
What I can only assume were fake gates - gracing entrances to various unknown edifices, empty lots or businesses - were ornate, colourful and mimicking the past made all behind them even sadder, and the gates themselves like painted ladies of the night.  In the light of day garish, gray and fading.
As we left the city there were signs of possible destruction in progress amidst row after row of trees.  No idea when these were planted or what they were because all the leaves have, of course, fallen and their skeletons are mere spectres - drained of all moisture, frozen in place, black with soot.  Everything covered in soot and exhaust.  The plants, the trees, the buildings, the people.A flash of white therefore was bound to catch my eye.  One of the lovely birds with white wings offsetting bluish black plumes flitted by to land in an otherwise naked, semi-stripped nest.

The banquet hall is far more colourful than the people.  Even the conversation, usually loud to deafening in such places, is subdued.  The majority of the men in blacks, browns and eggplant hues.  At least the latter show some spunk.  Also far more men here - there are at least two conferences, most likely upper echelon business managers, going on here.  Of course I should not comment on what people are wearing, nor why they are here, I am in my usual grays and dark rose (no turquoise today) I tend to wear here; nor does anyone why a lone foreign, mature, woman would be in such a distant place - the hotel is not easy to get to or from (I discovered this later).
The hall is the usual golds, off whites and rich colours always found in higher class banquet halls in China.  This one has rich brown chair coverings and table toppers.  It is the huge murals depicting ancient scenes at each end of the hall that have all the colour.  These ones are in excellent taste and even match what is going on in the room - eating, entertaining and serving being the themes.  It is interesting that both murals portray only women, whereas they are very unevenly represented in the room.  As expected, the majority of servers are young women.

I am warm enough to wonder if I should just remain here for the rest of the day.  I won't, I do want to make it to the painted ladies at the park next door to the hotel before dark.  I have to work off this bountiful meal.  The hot and sour soup, near the end of my meal, was horrible.  I have never mastered the etiquette for filling plates in China - other than ensuring they are ladened - I believe in having a new plate for each trip to the buffet.  And there everyone goes - all at once that magic unseen motion of the head, or unheard whisper - to rise up and leave.  Perhaps I should do this once a month in different higher end eateries wherever I am.
Now if only I could master xiao xia.  (little lobster - or really big prawns!)

Monday, 26 December 2011

Visit to Canada

Well, so much for keeping everything up to date via my Blog- I can't access it from Taiyuan!
I hope to get everything caught up while in Victoria for the next month; not that I have a lot - most of what I have had to say was sent via email.  However, I do have at least two rather long entries to type in - or they seem long when handwritten.

Here for about a month - now to use my time wisely.

Tuesday, 29 November 2011

Big Bus Tour

I know I already mentioned some of this in my last Blog; however, I was very tired but had to say more.  First, i highly recommend anyone visiting Shanghai take this tour.  The price cannot be beat with three tours, hop on - hop off, 24 hours to use the ticket.  It gives a completely different perspective of the city because, if you climb to the upper deck, and sit outside, there is so much more above the first floors of buildings.
For instance, many, many streets are lined with little shops.  What we do not see is what is above these shops.  Very often this where the family of a shop might live, or it is a space that has been rented to business or families.  If to families that is exactly what I mean.  The apartments might be divided to house more than one family.  I was amazed at how much I could get more than a passing glimpse of.  Beautiful, I assume old, stained glass windows that must look into an inner courtyard - where we mere pedestrians cannot see, it is all behind the shops.  This is, of course, partially a guess.  However, after seeing what Tai Kang Lu has become I stand firm in my belief there is much behind those shuttered or curtained spaces.  Especially if you are looking across the second or third floor.  I saw vast wardrobes in more than one apartment - how in heaven they managed to get them there in the first place can be partially figured out; it is doubtful they will be removed with any great care unless the whole block is going to be saved for refurbishment.  There were many blocks over the space we travelled.  What I thought was a block in the midst of being torn down provided a glimpse at determination - a balcony bonsai garden.  All gray surroundings, then turn your head, or look up, and around and there it was - several tiny, green trees in their individual pots.  A hobby for a small space.  But that space belonged to that individual.  I imagined an elderly man - could have been anyone.
The Big Bus is like the tours in Victoria - wish I had thought of starting such an operation in Shanghai.  I expect it was around the time of the Beijing Olympics, no idea if they are in Beijing too.  None of the 5 or 6 buses I was on were ever empty; they weren't always full either - that was the fun of getting off at an attraction, then jumping back on.  When I finally became quite exhausted - before discovering the buses I had walked from Ulumuqi at Hengshan to Nanjing Lu near the Art Museum.  A couple of hours.  My plan had been to walk to the Bund, check out Portman Hotel - it's what foreigners do, then catch the subway back.  Eventually I did take the subway, but that was after seeing the Jade Budha Temple; Jin Jiang Temple; Yu Yuan, Xintiandi and actually getting off at the Bund.  I had already seen all the others when I lived in Shanghai.  Perhaps if I had someone with me I would take these and the other attractions in again.  This was just very nice to become reacquainted.

Tai Kang Lu was a shock.  Perhaps if I went back another time I could handle the change.  It isn't that everyone was turfed out on their ears - it just seemed that way.  Not so sure about the side where there is a huge shopping centre; however, I do recall many of the living quarters above the shops seemed to be closed.  I also recall one place that might have had a flood in it as water had overflowed the little wooden balcony and water had trickled down to form a huge frozen water fall.  That was then.  Now, opposite there, is Tai Kang Lu.  So, after getting over my shock I ventured inside.  The key to any exploring in China is to look up.  That is where the people live, where the old can still be seen, where I am sure people wish the old were new.  This was a hu tong; fairly large now that it has been opened up.  My complaint is that it is so commercial - like so much in China.
I decided I needed to search for a familiar place - and fortunately I did.  Prices are heftier at Joma Arts where I had found four wool, Tibetan cushions before returning to Canada over seven years ago.  Now they only have rugs in the same style and are far too expensive right now for me.  I also found a beautiful silver bracelet, nothing like what we find at home, but that too seemed too steep.  Tourists, the wealthy ones, can go there to shop.  Kommune, a funky and very busy restaurant back when we would visit Tai Kang Lu is even busier with even more foreigners.  I did not buy anything.  However, I did decide to check out the Italian Restaurant where we had a birthday party for Rachel.  By the way Rachel, the gorgeous Italian is older now - still not too bad looking, but older.  So, yes That' Amore is still there.  They are just as welcoming as ever.  The owner let me take pictures, I had a cup of very delicious cappuccino; but of course their prices match the location.  Too bad the staff art too Chinese - perhaps it was the fact it was off hours - they were just too attentive; I preferred the family, let's eat and be merry atmosphere with just a hint of controlled chaos in the background. I would still love to eat there again - just to try it after all these years.

Next time - flight cancelled due to snow.  I could have sworn I left Canada!  (But, physical first)

Saturday, 26 November 2011

You Can't go Home Again (or: Tides of Change)

I decided to walk from my friend's at one end of Huaihai Lu to Ruijin Lu to seek out the new old town she had told me about.  Along the way I could take photos, watch people, enjoy the lovely weather.  Some of the changes I have really taken notice of are pregnant bellies and newborns.  It is no longer just Chinese women who  are showing off their pregnancies and proudly carrying their newborn.  Now foreign women are doing the same. I saw two heavily pregnant women, two with very young babies, one perhaps 6-7 months along with a child also.  That was in the space of 4 hours!
I was also amazed at how many foreigners are riding fairly heavy duty motorcycles, as well as motor scooters.  There were three with sidecars - three people on each.  One group, yes a group, consisted of two touring bikes, the woman on one with flowing blonde hair streaming behind her; and the driver also seemed to have long hair - male though.
The biggest change though - for me, was to visit a small street we would frequent for cong yong bing; sweet potato chips; little trinkets; search out some hidden gems of stores and even places for the girls to take kung fu lessons.  I had not put the name of the place I should visit to the place we used to visit.  Our little street, with its few hidden alleys has been discovered.
All the quirky shops are gone - one whole side of the street was turned into a vast shopping centre, which means all the little shops on that side have vanished, along with where people lived above their shops.  Now there is Tai Kang Lu the old town.  Fine, it was quite a discovery and excellent investment to open this area up for those living there to make money.  It certainly draws the tourists.  But the charm is gone unless you can get away from the crowds and look up - at the old brickwork, the old wood latticework, old doors and little balconies.  Otherwise it is just another Yu Yuan, except nicer with more expensive stuff; or Xintiandi, but less expensive.  So, I  don't know if this is progress or not.  When I realized that the entrance to this maze of little alleys that twist in and around and out again was our special place I had to cover my mouth to hold back my shock.  It would not have done to have this middle aged foreign lady crying at the entrance of a tourist attraction - the most likely thought would have been that I was robbed.
Which I was in a way - another memory was taken away.  Perhaps why remaining in Shanghai, as much as I loved it before, is not a good idea.  You can go home, but it will never be the same.

I found this while visiting Yu Yuan and Xintiandi  the next day.  Yu Yuan just as crazy as ever.  Crowds dreadful, forgot this was a Saturday.  I did not stay long after doing a quick check for silver bells.  Headed for the foreign haven of Xintiandi.  Still expensive, still clean, still full of lots and lots of restaurants that should meet anyone's tastes.  Simply Thai is still there, looking as calming and relaxing as ever.  I wonder if it is the atmosphere or just how we expect all things Thai to be.
I did not stay long there either.  Thank goodness for all those new subway lines - took the number 10 each time.  After two days of exploring and lots of walking I am utterly exhausted.
My best adventure today was going shopping for some ingredients to make tomato sauce.  I cheated a bit, bought tomato past, canned black olives and feta cheese at the store Faezeh goes to.  But I did buy small tomatoes, bananas and oranges at one of the local markets nearby and two types of cong you bing.  So, I feel as though I accomplished something.  I even returned the adapter I do not need and got my money back!
Sauce is made, cooling down and will be ready for lunch or dinner tomorrow.  Simple cooking at home - not always easy in China.  Now, 7:00PM and I need a nap.
Meeting with Shirley and other former colleagues tomorrow for tea; then perhaps I will tackle the Bund as my last old haunt.  By then I also hope to have my writing voice back.

Wednesday, 23 November 2011

Some Observations

You cannot record your thoughts unless a writing implement or recording device is right at hand.  Which never seem to be.
Shanghai is the exact opposite of my little cottage and idyllic spot in Sooke.  Never quiet.  There is always, I mean always, noise.  I suppose there is in Sooke too; however, that is more often the sound of nature.  Here there are car, motorbike, bicycle horns; sirens; people yelling - that seems to be a constant; dogs barking; children playing; loudspeakers blaring; music; bells; whistles; birds - yes, there are birds; wind.  A cacophony of un-orchestrated sound.
People yell to be heard.  On their cell phones they try to be heard over the noise of traffic and everyone else who are also trying to be heard over the same distractions.  They yell from the ground to people on the 20 something floor of apartment buildings - why they don't just go up or call and then yell less boistriously is beyond me.  (and I have a spelling block - must check later).  They yell for children to "lai.le" (come); or to "zuo ba" (hurry up), to get off the road, to pee over there - young children are still encouraged to urinate wherever it is handy, although a bit more discreetly since I was last here.  Perhaps that is more my not seeing many children out during the day.  (Must get back to that)  One little boy at a shop near my friends, where I was attempting to deal with finding the right adapter for plugging in my computer here with no luck, was given the instruction to pee on the concrete floor close to the counter.  Was this an indication of how desperate he was, a way to show the foreigner there was a son in the family, or indifference - perhaps all three?
There are fewer children around.  Things must be going well in China because they only come out of the brickwork when school is over.  This means that more and more children are attending preschool than ever.  Yes, grandparents still seem to be fetching them after classes because parents work - the difference is that there is spare income to send children off, thus lifting the burden off grandparents to care for grandchildren.  I am not sure this is good or bad - it certainly changes the cultural norm of society again.
Dogs.  As my family is aware, I am not a fan of dogs - especially big dogs.  When I left China I had only seen two big dogs - St. Bernard's, and they were in a car.  Now there are all sorts of mid-size and larger dogs.  It is like when people in China were finding they could afford to purchase cars.  China is not a car culture.  Nor is it a dog culture.  I am sure people do care about their pets, make no mistake - these are pets, not guard dogs; I hope.  The problem is that most people live in apartments, and they work all day.  So now, instead of looking after young grandchildren I can't help but wonder if grandparents are now looking after pets.  I have seen young and old alike walking these animals.  Small yappy dogs, larger - and calmer, big dogs.  Where once a woman pushing a shopping cart and talking to herself would not have gained even a first glance, now I have seen a woman pushing a shopping cart with her dog in it, talking to the dog.  That still does seem to get at least a couple of stares.  I was in a taxi, stopped for traffic, which gave me this study of people in China and their dogs.  Because they, the dogs that, are very much treated like children.
A final observation.  I am rather spoiled right now.  Still in the metropolis of Shanghai, not a whole lot to do, staying with a very gracious friend makes it seem as though I am on holiday as well as in a holding pattern.  A life like this would be very nice - food is always available, clean apartment, kind words, lots of personal space - she works, go out when I want to...now if I had this at home would I go for it?  I am inclined to say only if it did not mean I had to do all the shopping, cleaning and earning - which is not possible there or here.
So, I will enjoy this respite while I can.  Off to the office this morning to drop off photos for my visa - 16 of them!  Cannot imagine why they need so many.  Like one of the staff said, perhaps they have a personal album.  I could add to that by wondering if they have two albums, the ones they approve and the ones they don't - just because.  I doubt I will ever be able to figure out the legalities of the foreigner policies here - which makes sense from the Chinese standpoint.