For instance, many, many streets are lined with little shops. What we do not see is what is above these shops. Very often this where the family of a shop might live, or it is a space that has been rented to business or families. If to families that is exactly what I mean. The apartments might be divided to house more than one family. I was amazed at how much I could get more than a passing glimpse of. Beautiful, I assume old, stained glass windows that must look into an inner courtyard - where we mere pedestrians cannot see, it is all behind the shops. This is, of course, partially a guess. However, after seeing what Tai Kang Lu has become I stand firm in my belief there is much behind those shuttered or curtained spaces. Especially if you are looking across the second or third floor. I saw vast wardrobes in more than one apartment - how in heaven they managed to get them there in the first place can be partially figured out; it is doubtful they will be removed with any great care unless the whole block is going to be saved for refurbishment. There were many blocks over the space we travelled. What I thought was a block in the midst of being torn down provided a glimpse at determination - a balcony bonsai garden. All gray surroundings, then turn your head, or look up, and around and there it was - several tiny, green trees in their individual pots. A hobby for a small space. But that space belonged to that individual. I imagined an elderly man - could have been anyone.
The Big Bus is like the tours in Victoria - wish I had thought of starting such an operation in Shanghai. I expect it was around the time of the Beijing Olympics, no idea if they are in Beijing too. None of the 5 or 6 buses I was on were ever empty; they weren't always full either - that was the fun of getting off at an attraction, then jumping back on. When I finally became quite exhausted - before discovering the buses I had walked from Ulumuqi at Hengshan to Nanjing Lu near the Art Museum. A couple of hours. My plan had been to walk to the Bund, check out Portman Hotel - it's what foreigners do, then catch the subway back. Eventually I did take the subway, but that was after seeing the Jade Budha Temple; Jin Jiang Temple; Yu Yuan, Xintiandi and actually getting off at the Bund. I had already seen all the others when I lived in Shanghai. Perhaps if I had someone with me I would take these and the other attractions in again. This was just very nice to become reacquainted.
Tai Kang Lu was a shock. Perhaps if I went back another time I could handle the change. It isn't that everyone was turfed out on their ears - it just seemed that way. Not so sure about the side where there is a huge shopping centre; however, I do recall many of the living quarters above the shops seemed to be closed. I also recall one place that might have had a flood in it as water had overflowed the little wooden balcony and water had trickled down to form a huge frozen water fall. That was then. Now, opposite there, is Tai Kang Lu. So, after getting over my shock I ventured inside. The key to any exploring in China is to look up. That is where the people live, where the old can still be seen, where I am sure people wish the old were new. This was a hu tong; fairly large now that it has been opened up. My complaint is that it is so commercial - like so much in China.
I decided I needed to search for a familiar place - and fortunately I did. Prices are heftier at Joma Arts where I had found four wool, Tibetan cushions before returning to Canada over seven years ago. Now they only have rugs in the same style and are far too expensive right now for me. I also found a beautiful silver bracelet, nothing like what we find at home, but that too seemed too steep. Tourists, the wealthy ones, can go there to shop. Kommune, a funky and very busy restaurant back when we would visit Tai Kang Lu is even busier with even more foreigners. I did not buy anything. However, I did decide to check out the Italian Restaurant where we had a birthday party for Rachel. By the way Rachel, the gorgeous Italian is older now - still not too bad looking, but older. So, yes That' Amore is still there. They are just as welcoming as ever. The owner let me take pictures, I had a cup of very delicious cappuccino; but of course their prices match the location. Too bad the staff art too Chinese - perhaps it was the fact it was off hours - they were just too attentive; I preferred the family, let's eat and be merry atmosphere with just a hint of controlled chaos in the background. I would still love to eat there again - just to try it after all these years.
Next time - flight cancelled due to snow. I could have sworn I left Canada! (But, physical first)
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