Saturday, 26 November 2011

You Can't go Home Again (or: Tides of Change)

I decided to walk from my friend's at one end of Huaihai Lu to Ruijin Lu to seek out the new old town she had told me about.  Along the way I could take photos, watch people, enjoy the lovely weather.  Some of the changes I have really taken notice of are pregnant bellies and newborns.  It is no longer just Chinese women who  are showing off their pregnancies and proudly carrying their newborn.  Now foreign women are doing the same. I saw two heavily pregnant women, two with very young babies, one perhaps 6-7 months along with a child also.  That was in the space of 4 hours!
I was also amazed at how many foreigners are riding fairly heavy duty motorcycles, as well as motor scooters.  There were three with sidecars - three people on each.  One group, yes a group, consisted of two touring bikes, the woman on one with flowing blonde hair streaming behind her; and the driver also seemed to have long hair - male though.
The biggest change though - for me, was to visit a small street we would frequent for cong yong bing; sweet potato chips; little trinkets; search out some hidden gems of stores and even places for the girls to take kung fu lessons.  I had not put the name of the place I should visit to the place we used to visit.  Our little street, with its few hidden alleys has been discovered.
All the quirky shops are gone - one whole side of the street was turned into a vast shopping centre, which means all the little shops on that side have vanished, along with where people lived above their shops.  Now there is Tai Kang Lu the old town.  Fine, it was quite a discovery and excellent investment to open this area up for those living there to make money.  It certainly draws the tourists.  But the charm is gone unless you can get away from the crowds and look up - at the old brickwork, the old wood latticework, old doors and little balconies.  Otherwise it is just another Yu Yuan, except nicer with more expensive stuff; or Xintiandi, but less expensive.  So, I  don't know if this is progress or not.  When I realized that the entrance to this maze of little alleys that twist in and around and out again was our special place I had to cover my mouth to hold back my shock.  It would not have done to have this middle aged foreign lady crying at the entrance of a tourist attraction - the most likely thought would have been that I was robbed.
Which I was in a way - another memory was taken away.  Perhaps why remaining in Shanghai, as much as I loved it before, is not a good idea.  You can go home, but it will never be the same.

I found this while visiting Yu Yuan and Xintiandi  the next day.  Yu Yuan just as crazy as ever.  Crowds dreadful, forgot this was a Saturday.  I did not stay long after doing a quick check for silver bells.  Headed for the foreign haven of Xintiandi.  Still expensive, still clean, still full of lots and lots of restaurants that should meet anyone's tastes.  Simply Thai is still there, looking as calming and relaxing as ever.  I wonder if it is the atmosphere or just how we expect all things Thai to be.
I did not stay long there either.  Thank goodness for all those new subway lines - took the number 10 each time.  After two days of exploring and lots of walking I am utterly exhausted.
My best adventure today was going shopping for some ingredients to make tomato sauce.  I cheated a bit, bought tomato past, canned black olives and feta cheese at the store Faezeh goes to.  But I did buy small tomatoes, bananas and oranges at one of the local markets nearby and two types of cong you bing.  So, I feel as though I accomplished something.  I even returned the adapter I do not need and got my money back!
Sauce is made, cooling down and will be ready for lunch or dinner tomorrow.  Simple cooking at home - not always easy in China.  Now, 7:00PM and I need a nap.
Meeting with Shirley and other former colleagues tomorrow for tea; then perhaps I will tackle the Bund as my last old haunt.  By then I also hope to have my writing voice back.

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